Adipeau founder Ivan Galanin on why bloated fat cells are behind skin laxity, volume loss and creepiness, and the two products he created to treat it.
What if most of what you don't like about your skin is not really aging, but just weakness? I am referring here to the big things: the face losing its shape, the deepening of nasolabial folds, the looseness of skin on the belly and chest, the crepiness on the neck and legs. We tend to blame these changes on getting older. But my perspective, backed by years of research, is that what we are really looking at is skin weakness. And “weakness”, unlike age, can be addressed.
Adipeau was built to do exactly that. Specifically, it targets an overlooked source of skin weakness: fat cells beneath the skin's surface that have become bloated and inflamed, losing their ability to support the skin above them.
How I Started Adipeau
I came to skincare from an unlikely place. I had previously founded two biotech companies in the fields of genetic disease and cancer. In 2017, I noticed that a simple cottonseed oil cream resolved a long-standing skin issue of my own. I suspected the fatty acids in the cream were activating my dermal fat cells. Curious, I had lunch with the head dermatologist at NYC's Mount Sinai School of Medicine. When she told me she knew nothing about dermal fat cells,, I knew this was going to be a great science adventure.
What Makes Adipeau Different
The key discovery came through what I can only describe as luck. I identified an ingredient called Kaempferia Parviflora Root Extract, known colloquially as Black Ginger, as the foundation of the formula. I originally selected it because it stimulated the growth of new fat cells in a way that complemented the action of long chain fatty acids. What I didn't appreciate at the time was that it also made mature fat cells smaller. This turned out to be the key innovation.
Here is why: long chain fatty acids alone can actually cause mature fat cells to expand further. They needed to be paired with something that would tone and reduce cell size at the same time. Black Ginger provided exactly that balance. I engaged the Karolinska Institute to validate the mechanism. Their findings confirmed that the extract could reduce the size of bloated fat cells while stimulating regeneration, increasing cell number and reducing cell size simultaneously. When tested in full thickness skin explants, just five days of application produced a significant reduction in cell size. To my knowledge, it remains the only botanical extract to reduce cell size and increase cell number in bloated human fat cells.
What’s the Difference Between Strength Gel and Volume Cream?
The line consists of only two products. Strength Gel and Volume Cream. The two products support the same goal of healthy dermal fat with different points of emphasis.
Strength Gel focuses on restoring strength to the skin. For skin that looks loose, weak, crepey, or saggy. It works by reducing the size of bloated, sluggish fat cells while stimulating the growth of fresh new ones. The result is improved laxity, reduced crepiness and better overall skin structure.
Volume Cream focuses on restoring depleted areas. For skin that looks depleted, think hollow, sunken, or deflated. It supports the next stage of the process, helping newly formed fat cells mature and fill out, restoring the fullness and lift that has been lost.
Used together, they address both sides of the equation: toning what has become loose, and rebuilding what has been lost.
Weak, loose, crepey, or saggy → Strength Gel.
Hollow, sunken, or depleted → Volume Cream.
Some skin will look both weak and depleted: Such as under the eyes and to the sides of the mouth.
How to Use Adipeau
For lack of elasticity on the face, I recommend starting with the Strength Gel, twice per day on clean skin. You can apply a good layer and allow it to absorb for 10 minutes. You can either follow with your existing routine after that, or apply it last, as a protective layer as your final step. For weak skin on the body, such as cellulite, follow the same application method. For any areas with hollowing, such as the cheeks, temples and under eyes, you can apply the Volume Cream. This can be applied twice per day instead of the gel if this is your main concern, or once per day alternated with the Strength Gel. You can also layer the products, but be sure to leave 10 min between them both and any other products – as this method takes some time, I recommend one product in the morning, and one in the evening, depending on your concerns. For younger skin, the cream also gives amazing glow!
Do I Leave It On or Wash It Off?
That’s up to you. There is no need to wash it off either product, but if you don’t like the fee, you can certainly wash the product off.
Where Does Adipeau Fit Into My Routine?
Adipeau can go on top of other skincare.
Cleanser → serums/treatments → moisturizer → Adipeau
In the morning, sunscreen follows.
You can layer the Gel and Cream in any order. Using Cream last allows for more glow; using Gel last allows for more protection.
When to Expect Results
You should see results within 6 weeks of using both products. For the gel, some tightening can be seen immediately, and for the cream, you will notice deep hydration straight away.
What Can’t Be Used With Adipeau?
There are a few topical ingredients we recommend pausing while using Adipeau: caffeine, resveratrol, guarana, green tea extract (EGCG), L-carnitine, and curcumin. These can work against the regenerative process Adipeau is designed to support .Retinoids and hyaluronic acid are generally okay, but very high-strength or long-term use deplete skin melanin (retinoids) or compromise the skin barrier (HA).
On Partnering with Living Beauty
I am proud to be available at Living Beauty, one of Toronto's premier destinations for skincare. I value the integrity, innovation and meticulous standard that Living Beauty stands for, and was excited to collaborate on an Adipeau activation with them earlier this year, where I set out to understand the effects of GLP-1s on the skin, and how I can best support it during rapid weight loss. I was joined by top MD's, who brought a medical perspective to my skin focused panel. I am working with Living Beauty to bring more education and resources to customers, helping to create awareness of what creates true, lasting skin health, and why the dermal fat cell population is such an important and overlooked part of maintaining elasticity and volume as we age.
